Has anyone tried putting bulbs in your car, closing the windows, and letting the car sit in the sun all day as an alternative to HWT? It gets hot enough inside to kill a child (as we unfortunately had locally last year), so would it kill the bad stuff in the bulbs?
I’ve been cleaning bulbs and will have to do some HWT on bulbs from one suspect bed. I only put bulbs in that bed when I have no where else to put them, and then dig them the next year. Bulbs from that bed have some dark “goop,” for lack of a better term, around the neck. Scraping further has disclosed some small grubs, possibly bulb fly grubs. One bulb had many grubs, which surprised me as I thought the lesser bulb fly only attacked sick bulbs.
I won’t try the car method, since I can give HWT to small quantities of bulbs without difficulty, but I’m curious.
Mary Lou
Hi, I think that heat treating your bulbs in a sealed and overheated car is an interesting idea. It certainly could prevent virus transmission and you could treat a lot of bulbs at a time. Regulating temperature so that it doesn’t rise above 130F. could be a problem. Maybe you could stick a thermometer on the dashboard and open and close a door. If you try the car treatment, please report on how it turns out. Also…has anyone tried microwaving the bulbs?
Bulb flies, both greater and lesser, are pretty well established in Oregon. I treat all of my cultivars each summer. Each cultivar gets 12 private minutes in a well washed stainless steel pan at 122F. If it’s raining or there is any sign of fungus, some bleach is added. It’s tiresome, but it works.
Most of the big bulb flies eclose here in June. They were all over the garden today. Sometimes in the very early spring I wonder about the other bumblebee-mimic flies in my garden. Are they bulb flies out of season or just harmless flower flies? I have found half grown maggots of the big fly in June. I suppose that a very early fly in this mild maritime climate could lay an egg or two in March. The big bulb fly maggots have an opaque appearance…they look pretty white. But the lessor bulb fly maggots are more transparent. You can less some loopy innards through their skin.
Hope it goes well. Sun yesterday with temperature in the low 60’s.
Deb Holland Newport, Oregon
Clay Higgins
OK, I will chime in with a few observations An automobile is great if you do not have to worry about how hot it gets- I have dried insect collections and had the insects dry perfectly but they can get so hot they start to melt- I think that chitin melts at the same temperature that it ignites…. I have seen plans for a solar lumber kiln that would probably do the trick- automatic doors to let the hot air out at a certain temperature(I could have used one of those in my car!)but the bulbs probably deteriorate if you keep the temperature up for too long. I was of the impression that the water was used in order to get a controlled temperature to all of the bulbs and to relieve the heat quickly by exposure to air. I have heard that the nematodes need to be chemicaly killed primarily beacuse they swim everywhere and there will always be cooler ares where they can survive- the mites and especially the fly larvae have much less mobility. We grew flies in college- the only way to kill them in the microwave is to put a large enough drop of water in their bottle to create a steam heat- well a dab of grease would do the same thing! But if an insect gets into the wrong place in the microwave for a few seconds I expect that one would go rather spectacularily? The fungi that attack daffodils seem to grow rather slowly- more so than the ones on roses I would guess. If you have a susceptible fungus the rate of reproduction ought to predict the development of resistance to the poison- of course the same idea implies if you do not use enough fungicide you will cause resistance in the fungus. I would like to hear John Hunter’s thoughts on hot water, as he has been well read and coherent (would that I could be coherent) on so much about the little yellow flower in the past. Two other things- I do not see the plants as being carbon dioxide breathers- they need oxygen! And the line between killing animals and killing plants is not fine so much as black and white- you kill the bugs or the bulb goes bad or you kill the bugs and go too far and the bulbs go bad, the idea is to keep the bulbs alive so you draw a definite line where you could see a broad gradation of things that might actually work? Secondly “solarizing” can work very very well if you can retain and concentrate the heat- but seems to work best when the soil has a good amount of moisture. The moisture carries off the heat and allows it to diffuse. I do not know what it takes to get the mosture level up and still retain the heat. John Beck
This is the type of ongoing conversation that deserves to be archived information which is not readily available. I hope that the eventual replacement for the current daffnet will facilitate that.
George Dorner
+=+=+=+=+=+=+= Anagram for Today +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
THE ASSASSINATION OF PRESIDENT ABRAHAM LINCOLN: A pistol in rebel actor’s hands; a fine man is shot.
—- Keith Kridler <> wrote: virus’s the Water are bulbs. the inside with of separate a eggs is our off plant! Dear Keith,
I was not suggesting that the heat within a sealed car would kill virus. A cultivar with virus would still have the virus. I was thinking that virus is more likely to float off to infect other bulbs in water then in the air of a closed car. Sealing the bulbs in plastic bags could help. I was only addressing the problem of bulb fly. Nothing else.
I live on a small lot…6,000 square feet. Families with small children live around me. I avoid pesticides, herbicides and strong chemicals whenever possible. I’m looking for GREEN solutions. Sunny and mild weather here. Good for weeding.
Deb Holland Newport, Oregon
Clay Higgins
“Bannockburn”
Ngatimoti
R.D.1
Motueka
New Zealand 7161
Phone (03) 526 8847
http://www.daffodil.org.nz
The website for all daffodil enthusiasts – visit us often!
For anyone who wants to try it, one way to keep track of the temperature in the car is to put a meat thermometer with a remote sensor in the car, in the shade, and set the alarm to 118. This would give you a few minutes to get to the car and open the doors to cool things down a bit before the temperature rose to 121. A battery-powered portable fan might be useful too.
Lina Burton
Denise,
I trust you meant "chill" not "freeze."
Here in mild-Winter oakley, I always chill new bulbs obtained from the UK, Holland, Michigan, or even Oregon before planting them in the Fall. That way, their emergence is hastened in the Spring and they get a complete growing season before our mid-Spring warm spell puts them into dormancy. The length of chilling – two to six weeks – depends upon the climate from whence the new bulbs come.
One year my old fridge malfunctioned and unnoticed the temperature dropped below freezing. I had placed my new bulbs from Brian Duncan in the fridge and didn’t check on them for the four weeks I planned to chill them. All seemed well when I took the bulbs out to plant them – they were firm, indeed hard! I planted half of the bulbs that day and left the rest for the next day. When I started to plant the rest on the second day, they weren’t hard any more – they were grey balls of putty! Every bulb was lost. I learned that freezing bulbs kills them!
But, of course any eelworm that, improbably might have been there, was there was killed as well!
At 05:08 PM 6/19/2008, Denise and Neil McQuarrie wrote:
Denise and Neil McQuarrie <> wrote: